You're right, it means the person in the tobacco lounge who does a job comparable to that of the barista, except with tobacco rather than coffee. )
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Avangi
Edit. I guess I'm having a slow day. If you let this sentence sink in for a few minutes, it makes perfect sense. (The NYT can do no wrong.) "The Earl poured lovingly." Were you thinking, a comma after "Earl," Mr. W??