0
Usenet Posted 22 years ago
Usage

History of Chicago "Pizza" Error: Update

ProQuest's earliest hit for the query "pizza and pizzeria" is the following, from the Chicago Tribune, 1939:
The only place in Chicago where you can buy Italian pizza is at a little restaurant on Taylor street (sic) near Halsted. There you can watch Tom Granato, for sixteen years the proprietor of Chicago's only pizzeria , concoct the delicacy and carefully deposit it in his big brick oven, slipping it off long handled shovels of well sandpapered wood onto the hot bricks.
The foundation of pizza is a dough similar to that in English muffins. Tom rolls out a piece the size of a pie crust on his marble slab, cuts up fresh Italian cheese over it, covers it with tomato the little Italian pear tomato sprinkles olive oil over it, and deposits it in the brick oven for a few minutes. It is served in a tin pie plate, cut in four sections, and is eaten with the fingers.
A few things are worth noting here. One, if the writer is correct, there was only one pizzeria in Chicago at the time (whereas there must have been hundreds in New York, even if they were confined to Italian neighborhoods).
Two, the comparison of pizza dough to that of English muffins is quite significant. I and others familiar with true New York Region pizza have pernted out that the basic error of Chicago "pizza" is that they use something like Pillsbury biscuit dough or Bisquick instead of proper pizza dough. If this 1939 writer's understanding of "English muffin" is consistent with the present-day Thomas' type, then it would seem that this basic Chicago error was present from the get-go, and indeed we may have to blame this Tom Granato fellow for not knowing how to make and use proper pizza dough.
Three, notice how small these early Chicago "pizzas" must have been: the writer says they are the size of a "pie crust". The standard New York Neapolitan pizza is, as I have pernted out many times before, quite large, about three times the size of a standard "pie" in the 20th-century core American sense. So Chicago "pizza" was erroneously small from the get-go.

Four, notice that the "pizza" was, from the get-go, undercooked.

Five, notice that this "pizza" was served "in a tin pie plate". That doesn't necessarily mean much, but it could be that the "pie" error was already going on, and that this "pizza" was already of that round-shaped soupy "deep dish" sort that Chicago later became so closely associated with. You could serve a tiny New York integral pizza in a tin pie plate, but I don't know what the pernt would be. A standard Neapolitan slice wouldn't even fit in a standard tin pie plate.

Six, this article shows that there was an existing pizzeria culture in Chicago before the War, if one pizzeria makes a culture. So to that extent my Strong Pizza Thesis has been disproved or disproven.
  

Top answer

[nq:1]ProQuest's earliest hit for the query "pizza and pizzeria" is the following, from the Chicago Tribune, 1939: The only place ... (snip)[/nq] Two days later on Oct 19, 1939, the same column ("Front Views and Profiles" by June Provines) printed this response from a reader: There's another pizza place in Chicago besides Tom Granato's. It's Tuffano's, located on Aberdeen near Vernon Park place.

  • [nq:1]ProQuest's earliest hit for the query "pizza and pizzeria" is the following, from the Chicago Tribune, 1939: The only place ...
  • (snip)[/nq] Two days later on Oct 19, 1939, the same column ("Front Views and Profiles" by June Provines) printed this response from a reader: There's another pizza place in Chicago besides Tom Granato's.
  • It's Tuffano's, located on Aberdeen near Vernon Park place.
  • However, pizzas are served here only on Saturday night.
  • Try a pizza with a bottle of claret or Chianti instead of afternoon tea, as is the custom in Naples and Rome it is something.
Free · every Monday

Get the Weekly English Kit 📬

New words, one handy idiom, and a 2-minute quiz — delivered to your inbox to keep your streak alive.

2 Answers
0
[nq:1]ProQuest's earliest hit for the query "pizza and pizzeria" is the following, from the Chicago Tribune, 1939: The only place ... at the time (whereas there must have been hundreds in New York, even if they were confined to Italian neighborhoods).(snip)[/nq]
Two days later on Oct 19, 1939, the same column ("Front Views and Profiles" by June Provines) printed this response from a reader:
0
[nq:1]One, if the writer is correct, there was only one pizzeria in Chicago at the time (whereas there must have been hundreds in New York, even if they were confined to Italian neighborhoods).[/nq]
And your basis for this assertion is...?

John Varela
(Trade "OLD" lamps for "NEW" for email.)
I apologize for munging the address but the spam was too much.

Related Questions