Help me translate this document to past tense please.

3.3 Frame and base
1. Pencils, rulers, and compasses were used to mark the board in accordance with the policy dimensions in the diagram below:

Source: The Pembina Institute
2. The screw was drived to the middle point of the policy board.
3. Hot glue used to affix the frame. Ruler and square were used to ensure that they are perpendicular.
4. Braces was added to support the frame.
5. A fully braced upright.
6. Ruler was used to locate and mark the center of the cross bar.
7. The dowel were tested in the screw eyes to match. It should be loose, but with little play. Screws were adjusted to obtain an appropriate size.
8. The screw was rotated to point at the center cross bar.
9. The end of the dowel has been honed by use of a pencil sharpener.
10. Place marks on the uprights 28 cm above the baseboard.
11. Slip the dowel through the screw eye on the crossbar, and hold the crossbar in position on the uprights so that the dowel is perpendicular to the base.Mark its location with the pencil. 12. Secure the cross bar with generous amounts of hot glue.
13. The finished frame!

3.4 The Coil
1. Make a winding jig by folding a small piece of corrugated cardboard over itself 3 times. The jig should be 3 cm wide by about 20 cm long. Secure with tape.
2. Cut 8 pieces of electrical tape, 4cm long each, and have these ready for the next steps.
3. Wind the wire onto your jig, as shown. Make 4 coils each with 200 turns of wire, making sure there is a wide gap between each coil, and leaving about 40 cm of wire before the first coil, and after the last coil. This should use up about 20 meters of wire per coil.
4. Slide the first coil off the jig and secure it tightly with 2 of the 8 pieces of electrical tape.
5. Slide the next off the jig and secure both sides with tape. Repeat for the remaining 2 coils.
6. Carefully sand or scrape off 15mm of the enamel insulation from the free ends of the wire
7. Test the coils to ensure electricity can get through all of them: set the voltmeter for ohms (the 200 ohm range) and connect the test leads to the free ends of the coils.
8. The coil finished

3.5 The Stator
1. Loosely position all 4 coils on the base as shown in the diagram. Be sure the turns of wire can carry electrons in a clockwise direction in each coil.

Source: The Pembina Institute

2. Once you are confident the coils are properly positioned, glue them down on the stator disk. They should just touch the circle you drew on the base. Use a generous blob of hot glue under each coil.
3. Connect the free ends of the coil wires to the light emitting diode.
4. Tape or glue any loose wire to the base or frame to keep it from catching on the turbine.
5. The stator finished

3.6 The rotor
1. Using the geometry compass, mark 2 circles 12cm in diameter on the cardboard or foam board.
2. Cut these circles to make disks from the cardboard using the utility knife.
3. Use the white glue to laminate the two larger disks together. (Tip: if you are using
corrugated cardboard, orient the corrugations in the disks so they are perpendicular to each other, to increase the rotor disk's stiffness.)
4. Using a ruler, mark one side of the rotor disk with perpendicular lines. Be sure the two lines are 90 degrees apart. Use a geometry square or the corner of a piece of paper to help you locate the second line.
5. Use a nail to punch a hole through the center of the rotor disk.
6. Hot glue the 4 fender washers to the disk, centering them over the lines and bringing their edges up to the edge of the disk.
Tip: be sure the washers are clean and free of all grease and dirt, otherwise, they may not stick to the disk.
7. Carefully separate your magnets by sliding them off the stack, one at a time.
8. Carefully place a magnet on each washer with the same pole facing up (north or south). On many magnets, a red dot marks the north pole
9. Tip: If you are unsure of the polarity of the magnets, you can use a magnetic compass to confirm that all the magnets are either north or south.
10. The rotor completed.

3.7 The turbine
1. If you have not already done so, glue the templates for the turbine end pieces onto corrugated cardboard or foam board.
2. When the glue is dry, cut the two turbine end pieces free from the cardboard using the utility knife.
3. Using a nail, punch a small hole in
4. Using scissors or a utility knife, cut the top and bottom off the water bottle, then cut the cylinder into two equal halves.
5. Use the sand paper to buff the inside edges of each 6. Apply hot glue to one of the curved edges of one of bottle half where they will attach to the end pieces. Sanding allows the hot glue to adhere better. the turbine end pieces. Quickly position a plastic bottle half on this edge, holding it steady for about 20 seconds while the glue cools and hardens. (Do NOT apply glue the plastic bottle half!)
7. After checking for fit, apply glue to the edge of a second turbine end piece and fasten it to the first bottle half as shown.
8. Squeeze hot glue onto the remaining edges of the end pieces, and quickly apply the second bottle half to complete the turbine.
9. Push the sharpened round dowel through the center of the turbine, leaving about 6 cm projecting from the top.
10 Check the turbine for fit inside the frame. Spin it or blow on it to ensure it turns freely.

3.8 Fianl assembly
1. Carefully push the pointed end of the turbine shaft through the top of the rotor disk at its exact center. The magnet side should face down. Slide the disk so that about 2.5 cm of the dowel projects from the cardboard.
2. Test fit the turbine / rotor assembly in the frame:
slide the top of the shaft through the screw eye and locate its sharpened point in the screw.
Spin the rotor and ensure that:
a) The turbine turns freely without striking the frame
b) The rotor disk does not wobble as it turns
c) The gap between the magnets and the coils is about 3 millimeters or less.
3. Hot glue the rotor disk in to position so that it does not move on the dowel.
4. Final adjustments: You can "micro-adjust" the clearance by turning the screw in or out as needed.