Well, they mean slightly different things. If someone had a very neutral look, neither happy nor unhappy, they you could say, "You don't look happy" but you wouldn't say "you look unhappy."
You don't look old = You look not old. Are Both same in expression?-- The second is no good.
You don't look happy. = You look not happy. Are Both same in expression?-- The second is no good. You don't look more than 20 years old. = You look not more than 20 years old. Are Both same in expression?--Yes. It's said that "You don't look ...." mo